Article byWieger about speaker kit Duetta I have been “stumbling” onto reports about the Eton chassis, with beautiful flowery descriptions and installed in all. Your specialist für loudspeakers, home hifi, pro audio, car-hifi, electronic parts, capacitors, inductors, resistors, circuit boards and accessories. Actually i had no need for yet another speaker. Our livingroom was well equipted with SB18, SB30 Center and a MDS12 Subwoofer. But our bedroom had old.
|Published (Last):||12 December 2006|
|PDF File Size:||4.15 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||19.56 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
But after the subwoofer, which was also the amplifier, suffered a defect, I went on the search for new loudspeakers. So I was looking for cuetta stereo speakers that could also be used as front loudspeakers. One thing was clear right away: Since my standards for loudspeakers had been pretty modest before, the first place I looked was an electronics store. Unfortunately, all of their speakers sounded tinny and etin, probably because of the distributor technology. So I went to the nearest hi-fi store.
The salesperson suggested Danish speakers from a less well-known manufacturer because of their good price-performance ratio.
I was excited about the sound right away.
Duetta Standtop by Matthias – August – Loudspeakermagazine | Loudspeakerbuilding
I had never heard anything like it before. For the first time I duegta hear what a sound stage meant, and experienced a truly deep note. The tweeters were fairly harsh and aggressive for my taste, and the bass had a kind of volume boost. I soon realized that I found rumbling deep notes and metallic high notes unpleasant. So a few new items were added to my eon wish list: It soon occurred to me that I could build my dream loudspeakers myself. Out of all the assembly reports, I especially liked the rounded structures.
So I drove over to the Intertechnik listening studio to hear the BlueNote and the Duetta, both loudspeakers that feature the highly acclaimed ER4. All of the positive sound descriptions had made me very curious to hear this particular tweeter.
Meanwhile, the listening room had filled up with visitors, some even standing outside the door, and someone had the egon that you could just listen to the Duetta Top by itself. The deep tone in particular convinced me right away.
So the listening session was a complete success, and it really was the only way to pick dketta the right loudspeakers.
In terms of the sound, I had found my ideal loudspeakers. When I got etob home, I listened to my old loudspeakers again, and the difference could not have been more obvious. When I then also learned by email that the large model goes 3 Hz deeper, and that it is 0. I wanted etln build something special, so I spent a long time tinkering with the shape and thinking about the best way to implement my ideas.
I also wanted to make sure the loudspeakers were completely curved. After countless sketches, calculations and multiple paper models, I ended up with the final 3-D rendering, and my plan was complete.
The speakers would use two colors. I ultimately decided that the fronts would be painted black and the rest of the body would be laminated in macassar. Because of the small radius of the back wall, I decided to use the slat technique. I also thought building it with several layers of bent plywood would be more complicated. In addition, bent plywood is lighter than MDF. In order to avoid eto joints, the slats had to be cut to size according to the construction data.
Finally, the day had arrived. After all of my planning, I finally had the wood in my hands.
I started by building the skeleton, which fulfills two functions at once. During the assembly phases, it serves as a support structure for building everything around it. At first, the primary function of the skeleton was as a base for the slats on the back wall when everything is pulled tight with tension belts. Finally, the skeleton also provides the reinforcement matrix. For the elliptical curve, I created a template in advance, which I transferred to the MDF boards using the router and a copying ring.
Once everything had been cut out and adjusted, the individual pieces could be put together for the initial test. Gradually, the final form started to take shape. Once the slats had been placed as a test, I was very happy that the planning phase had been so extensive and precise after all.
At this point, nothing was glued down yet, but we quickly took care of that. To make sure the skeleton was glued together straight, the construction was painstakingly adjusted. In addition, we screwed guides made of wood scraps into the table in order to hold the skeleton to the side pieces during the drying phase.
Once everything was completely dry, the slats could be glued on one piece at a time. We quickly found that the slats are pressed on with more force if you use screw clamps. Still, we also held everything together with tension belts. The tensioning works especially well if you put on all of the slats, even the ones that are not yet glued down. Like an archway, the tension passes all of the force on to the slats being glued.
All of the slats were glued down one by one, and the cabinets were put together for the first time. Now the back wall was finished, and it was time to move on to the fronts.
The round shape of the back wall made it impossible to place the cabinet on the work surface in a stable way with the front facing up. So we cut a negative form out of MDF scraps and cushioned it with some pieces of carpet.
Duetta Standtop by Matthias
The negative pieces were stuck to the back wall to use as feet. As you can see from the picture, this construction makes it convenient to work on the front. I was also surprised by how stable the cabinet was with the feet resting on the work surface.
A small measurement error had occurred during the cutting phase, so the panel was still 10 cm too long. But we quickly fixed that. Still, it was a little tricky to glue the front side together. Duett, we fuetta the back wall as a fit piece for gluing the front.
In order to keep the two pieces of the cabinet from being glued together, we stuck a sheet of film in between them. Now gluing the slats for the front curve was no problem. For the drying phase, we tightened everything up with tension belts. After gluing, it was easy to remove the front pieces from the back wall. To make the sound as tight and dry as possible, I spared no effort in insulating the cabinet. In the next step, I used contact adhesive to attach 4-mm-thick duettq panels, in order to reduce cabinet vibrations and to dampen the emanating sound.
The next layer was supposed to be 15 mm of felt. In this photo, all of the front pieces are already glued together; the curve has been sanded, and everything is ready for the upcoming experiment: This step suetta very tricky.
Lautsprecher, Selbstbau, Eton, Duetta, ER4 und Etonkombi spielt auf allerhöchstem High End Niveau
The HDF board was mistreated with a hot iron to bend it around the curve, since wood can be bent with heat. People often assume that you need water to bend wood, but the water is just more efficient for conducting heat.
In fact, applying heat does ensure that the wood stays bent. I also remembered that fiberboard expands when it comes in contact with water. It turned out that the steam function on the iron really does make the surface expand, which was actually helpful for bending the wood. After the first round of ironing, glue was applied to the entire surface of the MDF substructure. During tensioning with the belts, the curve was continuously re-ironed until the HDF board fit against the curve.
During the drying phase, tension belts were attached all the way around the cabinet. Now the moment had come to undo the belts and see whether the bending experiment had been successful. Inspired by this success, we quickly rounded off the back walls with a belt sander. The photos once again clearly show the successful construction from the bending experiment. Now the square HDF board needed to be rounded off.
To do so, we stacked the front and back walls together. Using a jigsaw, we first roughly cut the HDF board to match the curve, and the belt sander did the rest. Just to be safe, we stuck some cloth tape to the back wall. Now the insulation inside the back walls could be finished.
So we sent the front pieces to a professional painter. I also decided to have a cabinetmaker do the veneer work, since it was my first time building hi-fi speakers and I had never done a veneer before. The cabinetmaker works with a vacuum membrane press, which uses vacuum pressure to attach the veneer to the round shape.
Originally I thought the precise woodwork would let me avoid puttying the slats on the back wall. But after the first dry pressing attempt without the veneer, the lines between the slats were obvious. So I did end up puttying. After the second dry pressing attempt, the problem was clear. Apparently, the vacuum membrane press builds up too much pressure for the slat construction, so the cabinet and the slats shifted and warped.
The result was an ugly stair-step effect, along with some protrusions that would have been visible even through the veneer. So I attached all of the slats individually with screws and puttied everything one more time. I also changed the veneering method. The cabinetmaker used a multi-component adhesive, which takes less pressure than the glue method.
Here you can see the veneered back walls and the painted fronts waiting for their final union.